Last year at about this time I had
a grumble about poor judging at the SIBA North event in Manchester. I had witnessed
a woeful ignorance of off flavours from several judges. I also noticed that
many judges preferred bland beer to tastier beer, marking them accordingly. It
seemed many judges were treating the event as a jolly day out drinking beer at
someone else’s expense.
This year’s North West event was held at
Hawkshead Brewery’s beer hall at Staveley near Kendal, in my home county of
Cumbria. The beer hall is considerably smaller than last year's Manchester venue. The number of Staveley judges was about a third of the number
of Manchester judges. I noticed the absence of some of the clueless judges I’d made a mental
note of the previous year.
The first of my three rounds was
bottled pale ale. Or, at least I think it was; my scrawled note said “bpa”. Three of the
eight beers showed the unmistakeable damp cardboard flavour of oxidisation –
one of them was particularly bad. I kept schtum while my three fellow judges
murmured their general approval of the beers. I thought about correcting my
fellow judges but decided not to be the know-all dick of the table. Several
times I heard the beers to be declared “balanced.”* Result: bad beer got
reasonable marks.
My second round was speciality
beers. I opted to judge this round as I’d previously witnessed reluctance by
some judges to have a go at funny foreign styles at rocket fuel strengths as
high as a jaw-dropping 7% abv. Two of my three fellow judges expressed
disappointment at being allocated the “weird stuff”, as one of them described it.
The beers were entertaining.
Fortunately none showed any off flavours. One, described as “spiced”, tasted
like mildly alcoholic Coca Cola. Another was an extremely good dark raspberry
fruit beer with a sour note. It was a marvellous beer: if you had told me it
was from a very good Belgian brewery I would have believed you. Two of my fellow three judges took exception to it, screwing up their faces in disgust. They marked it
very low.
My third round was bottled golden ales. One beer was hellishly bitter, other than that they were
competent though unremarkable beers.
Not being a SIBA grandee, I didn't judge the final round.
All in all, my piss boiled less
than last year – possibly because I didn't have to fork out £30 for a rail ticket**. But questions for SIBA remain: just what are people
doing judging a round in which they are likely to encounter something outside their parochial tastes? Just why are people who don’t
know common off flavours judging beer?
Many thanks to Jon and Becky of
Stringers Beer for the lift to Stavely and to John and Lucy of Barngates Brewery for the
lift home.
** Yes, I know SIBA is a good cause
and all that, but so is my never-ending overdraft.
A happy brewer: category prize- winner Roger Humphries of Cumbrian Legendary Ales |
2 comments:
I'll leap to the defence of "balanced" here. It's not an absolute good, but I do think it's useful beyond entry level and not a synonym for bland. Stone Brewing immediately springs to mind as a brewery that does fantastically balanced beers which are also full-flavoured and complex. Indeed balance and complexity often go hand-in-hand.
The meaning of balanced is an interesting subject.
I think you're right that it is, as some people use it, a gentle way of suggesting that a beer lacks any real character.
I've also noticed it being used defensively by brewers with an implied judgement: balanced=good. In this case, it's a kind of synonym for 'tasteful'.
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